Then I encount

Then I encountered this tongue-twisting wine label: 2005 Tesco Finest Reserva Especial Casablanca Valley Tapiwey Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc. As it happens, a nice wine at £7.99, but a mouthful in more senses than one. As I was reeling from the marketeer's trick of spinning two words into seven I came across Robert Mondavi's Private Collection California Cabernet Sauvignon and wondered just how exclusive old California Bob's private collection was A million cases is the answer. Embroidering wine labels with terms like exclusive, reserve, private collection, limited release and single vineyard is a cunning way of adding perceived value to wine without necessarily doing so Adding value should mean giving you something extra.

"This is not just a pinot grigio. This is an exclusive single estate blush frizzante pinot grigio," boasts Marks & Spencer's latest TV ad. Locals in the bar; local produce cooked with savoir faire, and served by Sarah in the restaurant.Knowstone, Devon (01398 341231). Highly skilled, meticulously sourced and precision food wows Michelin and the lucky few diners.17 High Street, Great Gonerby, Lincs (01476 561780)Mason's ArmsAfter 18 years with Michel Roux at the Waterside Inn, Mark Dodson and his wife Sarah have their own thatched inn. Then when the 24 customers come she keeps the Michelin-starred restaurant running smoothly, he mans the stove.Drumastle Mill Cottage, Dalry, Ayr (01294 833544)Hand & FlowersIf only all gastropubs had such a talented pair of owners.

Tom (he cooks) and Beth (she sculpts and runs the show) Kerridge do it all beautifully, from making the sausages to making everyone welcome.126 West Street, Marlow, Bucks (01628 482277)Harry's PlaceIt's really Harry and Caroline's place; the Hallams run their 10-seat restaurant together. And as you may have gathered, Apicius is a very good thing indeed. EApicius, 23 Stone Street, Cranbrook, Kent, 01580 714666Food Ambience Service Lunch £15.50, two courses; dinner £23.50, three coursesSide Orders: Husbands and WivesBy Caroline StaceyBraidwoodsKeith and Nicola Braidwood both cook - the bread's hers, the desserts are his. Given that the dining room holds about 20 people, those no-shows probably made the difference between profit and loss for the Johnsons that night Some people don't know a good thing when they see it.

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